In April, Josep Roca and Montserrat Fontané opened Can Roca, a bar- restaurant in Taialà-Germans Sàbat, a popular neighbourhood on the outskirts of Girona.

The Girona Catering School, led by Vicenç Andreu, was created. This school was to prove crucial in the Roca family's culinary history.

Josep Roca i Fontané was born in March.

Joan Roca i Fontané, son of Josep Roca, bus driver, and of Montserrat Fontané, cook at the Lloret restaurant in Girona, was born in February.

 

Joan completed his catering studies in June; the first class to complete the full five courses at the Girona school. He started to teach there three years later, in 1986.
By 1985 Josep had completed his studies.

 

Jordi Roca i Fontané, the youngest of the three Roca brothers, was born in May.

El Celler's first dish: Hake with rosemary and garlic vinaigrette, fruit of Joan's contact with Basque cuisine, particularly at Ramon Roteta's restaurant.

Joan and Josep Roca opened El Celler de Can Roca in August, on premises next to Can Roca, their parents' bar.

Chicken legs with prawns, a "surf and turf" that comprises elements of Can Roca's traditional cuisine and the more academic technical cuisine.

One of the restaurant's longest-standing dishes: Lobster parmentier with black trumpets. A dish which is still on the menu, as a testimonial to the clients that remained faithful to El Celler over its twenty-five years of history.

Joan spends a season in El Bulli, where Ferran Adrià was looking for a new way, which with the passage of time would turn him into one of the biggest cooks of our time.
The previous year had known Santi Santamaria, in Can Fabes, the Joan's first contact with a cook of height.

Joan and Josep visit the Pic restaurant in Valence. The atmosphere of the quest for happiness that was created there, and the image of Jacques Pic reflected in the set of copper pats and pans hanging from the hood when they went in to greet him dazzled them. The day they decided to dedicate their lives to haute cuisine.

Another classic: Pigs trotter carpaccio with penny bun (boletus edulis) oil. A dish that is part of the chef's professional memory. Quality of imagination and taste. Joan Roca says it is the first dish that he was truly happy with.

They opened La Torre de Can Roca, a space for banquets, a mere hundred metres from the restaurant, and which gradually became what is now known as El Celler de Can Roca.

Joan had a spell with Georges Blanc, in Vonnas, where he discovered the applications of sous-vide (vacuum) in a kitchen. As of then Joan began to experiment with exact temperature control and the duration of cooking.

The Michelin guide awarded the Roca brothers the first star to a restaurant of the city of Girona.

Joan invited Georges Pralus, author of "La cousine sous vide", 1985, a forerunner in the use of vacuum cooking in restaurants, to the Catering School.
Joan and his colleague from the School, Salvador Brugués, investigated the technique based on the idea of low-temperature cooking, also influenced by the experiments of Hervé This.

Together with another schoolmate, Narcís Caner, they developed the roner, which allows you to control water in order to cook with the utmost precision.
They started to use the immediate cooking technique, which is instant vacuum cooking, i.e. during the service. Vacuum had only been used previously for pre‑cooking or for preservation; times are now longer and cooking temperatures diminish.
The first course Cod with spinach, raisins and pine kernels dates from 1997.

At that time there was a certain influence of classic French cuisine, particularly in the use of products or treatments: foie gras, magrets, terrines, vinaigrettes, royales or veloutés.
One example of this is one of the core dishes of El Celler: Timbale of apple and duck liver with vanilla oil. A Roca brothers historic dish which, years later, in 2009, they donated to the city of Girona at the Local Festivities.

The other trend is based on the process of conceiving and creating a dish without evident references: Caviar omelette.
Blending the salt of the sea with the sweetness of the earth; caviar with hens' eggs, in a dish full of technical solutions.           

Pau Arenós published Els genis del foc (Geniuses of the range) (Empúries), portraying 10 Catalan avant-garde chefs. This books aspired to being a founding manifesto of a new way of understanding cooking. Joan Roca is one of the ten, whose cuisine is defined as “highly evolved, which has flourished with splendour from traditional roots, erected on the steadfast foundations of the family”.

El Celler entered an author's cuisine phase, where creativity took on two trends: one based on a reinterpretation of traditional dishes and products. One example is the reinterpretation of the family habit of going out for the Sunday "vermouth": Clam with grapefruit sorbet and Campari.

The dessert trolley was dispensed with at a time when the restaurant was being refurbished and extended.
It heralds a turning point in the sweet cuisine of El Celler, reinforced by the arrival of a Welsh dessert chef, Damian Allsop, and also when Jordi Roca joined as his assistant.

Another one of the dishes that will remain on the restaurant's menu for some time to come, and which has been continually reinterpreted: Iberian suckling pig with pepper sauce and garlic and quince terrine. The maximum expression of the low-temperature vacuum cooking technique.

Jordi Roca took over the restaurant's sweet cooking definitively. The three brothers had found their place: the salt mind (Joan), the liquid mind (Josep) and the sweet mind (Jordi).

Wine emerged from the confines of the dining room and began to play an important role in the kitchen as well. Wine as a point of departure in the creative process of a dish. Texturised wine became part of the dish. This is the concept of wine cooking, represented by Anchovies, truffle and Merlot.

Addition of smoke into fatty molecules. On the Journey to Havana they managed to retain the smoke of a Havana cigar in the mouth.
It is one of the first great dishes of Jordi Roca's cuisine, who this same year was brought into the world of ice-cream, with the help of Angelo Corvito.

 

Bergamot makes its appearance in El Celler's cuisine. This citrus would subsequently enjoy particular importance in the Roca brothers' cuisine: it became the point of departure for the scented desserts.
The first Adaptation of the Eternity fragrance by Calvin Klein opened up a series of dishes based on a concept at that time unknown in cooking: capturing the volatile soul of a perfume, deciphering the formula and adapting it to an edible reality.

The observation of the landscape as a point of departure for the creation of a dish became a new concept: the garden series was born. The Mediterranean garden or this Zen garden are examples of this.

Second star in the Michelin guide.

A new technique represented by Dublin Bay prawns with curry smoke: perfume cooking, consisting of setting the volatile aromas of the spices being roasted in the product during cooking.

Sous‑vide cuisine, by Joan Roca and Salvador Brugués (Montagud) was published and translated into Spanish, French, English and Italian.
It is a reference point in the world and laid the foundations for a highly valuable cooking technique, fundamental in the evolution of cooking in the future.

They began to use a technique thitherto used solely for decorative purposes: blown sugar applied to immediate cooking.
Caramelised apricot is an example of when cooking becomes an art of simulations, insinuations, appearances.

A new series of creations based on a new concept began: monochromatisms. The chromatic part of the ingredients are related to their taste aspect and the sensation produced: energetic, refreshing, vital, euphoric: Green chromology.

In the making of Baby octopus in Pimentón de la Vera paprika smoke, a mechanical tube was used for the first time ever to control the smoke.
The objective was to bring the smoke to the table and provoke affective sensations appealing to the olfactory memory.

The inclusion of distillates in cooking. Volatile aromas were captured by means of low temperature distillation. The Rotaval was developed jointly with the Fundació Alicia.
This technique gave rise to a first course that was to become an El Celler flagship: Oyster with earth distillate.

Jordi Roca's dish: Anarchy.
The pleasure of the random tasting of a thousand and one flavours. 43 tiny elements on one dish: 12 creams, 7 gelatines, 7 sauces,  3 granitas, 2 foams, 2 ice‑creams, 3 fruit cakes, 7 crunches.

Oyster with cava was the culmination of a long research drive to accomplish the texturisation of cava, preserving its endogenous carbonic acid gas. Cava thus became a sauce, without impairing its organoleptic properties.
The Sòlid, a cava with density, was marketed jointly with Agustí Torelló Mata.

The book Joan Roca: la cuina de la meva mare (Joan Roca: my mother's cooking) (Columna), was published, a compilation of one hundred and twenty Can Roca traditional recipes in homage to Montserrat Fontané's traditional Catalan cooking and which lay the foundations for their own cuisine.

Jordi Roca published Dolces sensacions (Sweet Sensations) (Ara llibres), a compilation of sweet cooking recipes he created especially for the Cuina magazine.

The restaurant relocated from its initial location next to Can Roca to the old Torre de Can Roca. The former 170 square metre premises were quadrupled on new and more comfortable premises: 200 square metres of kitchen, 200 of winery, 200 of dining room and 60 for the hall, plus a welcoming garden.

The book El Celler de Can Roca, una simfonia fantàstica (El Celler de Can Roca, a fantastic symphony), by Jaume Coll (Edicions Domeny), was published. The book detailed the restaurant's evolution over its first twenty years, step by step and person by person.
It was published in Catalan, Spanish, French and English.

The cuisine at El Celler de Can Roca was becoming increasingly more about moods. Research into how to impact moods through dishes led to the Milk dessert.

Joan Roca, deu menús per a un concert (Joan Roca, ten menus for a concert) (Galerada), a compilation of ten dishes inspired by ten fragments of opera and classical music.

Mediterranean garden symbolised another work of science and gastronomy: the extraction of essential oils to apply them to cooking.

Vins compartits (Shared Wines), by Marcel Gorgori and Josep Roca (Columna), was published. It is a compilation of a series of commented wine tastings based on the friendship between the journalist Marcel Gorgori and the El Celler sommelier, as a result of their participation in the En clau de vi television programme (C33).

El Celler de Can Roca was awarded its third Michelin star.

The Soft escalivada heralded the inclusion of smoke straight from the embers onto the dish.

The book Los postres de Jordi Roca (Jordi Roca's desserts) (Oceano Ambar) was published, a compilation of 80 dessert recipes, with photographs by Becky Lawton, which were part of his monthly collaboration with the Cuina magazine.

A new technique: wine cooking in the dining room. This involved the search for immediate cooking through wines that become vapour in front of the diner, cooking and scenting the product with volatile aromas: Steamed oysters in Manzanilla.

The British Restaurant magazine placed El Celler de Can Roca second in the list of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants. In 2009 it was fifth, and fourth in 2010. In 2012 remains the second.

The Rocambolesc ice‑cream parlour was opened in the centre of Girona. It sells artisanal, totally natural ice-creams, plus El Celler desserts to take away.

The dessert trolley returned to the dining room of El Celler de Can Roca, fruit of the collaboration with the industrial designer Andreu Carulla.

 
El Celler is a free-style restaurant, committed to the avant-garde, but still faithful to the memory of different generations of the family's ancestors dedicated to feeding people.

El Celler de Can Roca's commitment to cuisine and to the avant-garde, and its link to academia, has led it to defend the dialogue between the countryside and science, a total dialogue.